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A PRESENTATION OF MY BUSINESS
Mostly out of choice, but also partly by
chance, I find myself running a small wine-making company, formed mainly
by two farms given over to different type s
of cultivation. This is due to variations in the nature and geological
make-up of the land. The two farms are, indeed, on opposite sides of
Montepulciano, and were chosen for their different characteristics: one
is suitable for growing vines and the other for olives. The “Podere
Corsica” (one of the farms) is situated
in the area of Nottola at an altitude of about 330 metres above sea
level, in the heart of the hills which produce grapes for the production
of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The other farm, “Podere Totona” is at
an altitude of about 560 metres above sea level in an area which is
perfect for olive trees.
The vines in Nottola are fully exposed to the sun, while the ground is
of medium mix and gravelly, thus providing the vines with a richness and
the particular fragrances which make them typical of the area. It should
also be added that the grapes produced are full-bodied, a feature which
blends perfectly with their elegance.
The small dimensions of the farms means that I
am
able to oversee the organisation of each production phase by myself,
though with the collaboration of an enological consultant. This
situation allows me to pursue precise objectives which do not merely
answer to the demands of the market, and above all, means that I can
ensure quality.
Along with Vino Nobile, my other great passion is for Vin Santo. This
product, while being greatly refined and therefore made for conossieurs
only, is also a matter of personal pride for me and represents a family
tradition which I guard jealously.
The
“mother” vine which produces the grapes for the Vin Santo, is in fact
more than one hundred years old and has been passed down through three
generations. The old production procedure, which begins with the careful
selection of grapes, continues through their drying on mats for at least
120 days. Then there is the pressing and finally the aging process which
lasts for at least five years in small wooden casks. Once released from
the casks the long period of bottle aging begins. All this means that
Vin Santo has all the characteristics of a very high quality wine, and
as such, has an exclusive niche in the market.
HOW I WORK IN THE VINE-YARD AND IN THE CELLAR
The company’s production is very limited, due both to its size (4.50
hectares of specialised vines in production) and to my system of
cultivation and production. I decided to work in this way so as to be
able to use the healthiest possible grapes in the wine-making process..
In 1990 I also decided to farm my land using natural methods; My idea of
agriculture has always been supported by its eco- compatibility with the
Environment. For twenty-five years I have worked in my two little farms,
applying natural methods and without ever making use of parasiticidal
products, weed-killers or insecticide sprays; neither have I ever made
use of chemical fertilizer, always preferring natural manure.
Two years ago I decided to put my choices into effect – which are in
fact my choices of life too – by enrolling in the “List of Organic
Operators in the Tuscan Region” and I received a Certificate of
Conformity of Organic Companies last year from the Control Department of
“Soil and Health”.This choice of mine was dictated by a specific will to
contribute to the realization, for what is possible, of a better
agriculture, one which respects nature and which gives birth to earth
products which are healthy and genuine, conserving the “bio-diversities”
which are and which remain an added value of Italian products and of the
collective heritage.
The pruning of the vines, which takes place in January or February, is
carried out on a spurred cord which may only carry a maximum of eight to
ten buds, something which allows me to control the quantity of grapes
produced right from the beginning of the vines’ re-vegetation.
In the Spring months all the vines are manually cleaned, stripped of
excess foliage and the ground is hoed, depending on the what is needed
at the moment. These are age-old agricultural practices and very
expensive, but all carried out with the aim of ensuring the product’s
high level of health.
Pesticidal treatment can be reduced to a minimum if the vines are
carefully looked after by hand on a daily basis and if the specific
micro-climate is favourable.
Between June and July a drastic process of pruning is carried out, where
any grape-bunches which I think are excess to the vines’ productive
capacity are removed. The average number of grape bunches per plant is
eight. This permits optimal ripening and sugar concentration.
In August, which is traditionally hot, an important factor in the
ripening of the grapes, the earth around the vines - in the central part
of the row - is dug, so as to make it fresher and more able to take
advantage of the slight humidity which nightfall brings. This prevents
the plants from suffering from lack of water and is essential for the
equilibrium of the ripening process. It also contributes to the
possibility of an early harvest..
September is the most important period of the year: that of the harvest,
which is exclusively done by hand. The grape-pickers, if necessary, work
by filling two small 10kg boxes at the same time, one for top quality
grapes and one for lower quality grapes. In this way when the grapes
arrive at the cellar they are already sorted and can be used for
different products of different quality. The harvest takes five or
maximum six days so that the grapes are all picked at the optimal moment
in terms of maturity and analytical balance. If necessary, before the
harvest, any low quality grape bunches are removed. 
After being pressed and de-stalked, the grapes are put into small
stainless steel fermenting vats where they are left to ferment for at
least 10 - 15 days. During this period the processes of pumping over and
punching down the cap are carried out, sprinkling the grape skins with
the must so as to obtain the maximum amount of colour and fragrances.
The process of malolactic fermentation is also carried out in stainless
steel vats, before the wine is placed in small oak barrels (24-30
hecto-litres), tonneaux and barriques, where it remains for a period
from 6 to 24 months, depending on the type of wine. During these months
the wines are under constant supervision from me and the cellarman, who
oversees the racking of each barrel. At the end of the aging period in
oak, each barrel is analysed and evaluated for one last time by me and
the enologist. At this point we can decide on blending.
I sign all the bottles, which also carry information about the quantity
of production for that year for each wine, and a guarantee of the
quality of craftmanship that went into making the wine. I don’t work
entirely alone in Montepulciano, however. Indeed I compare and
collaborate with others who like me, try to produce ever better wines
and to understand more about this area where I was born and where I have
chosen to live with my family. For these reasons I am a member of
Montepulciano’s Vino Nobile Association.
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